Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
